Wednesday, November 14, 2012

The Evolution of Mens Fashion

The Jazz age had a profound impact on clothing, both for men and women. World War 1 was over, and the culture was quickly changing and evolving. The class system seemed to disappear and attitudes changed dramatically, especially among the youth of the era. As society went through rapid changes, mens fashion began to become more interesting and creative.

For centuries, men had worn a similar outfit, with few if any changes to it. In the 1920s, we see an introduction to sports wear, or wearing what the sports icons wore. We also see the younger generation rebelling against tradition and creating a new style that was better suited for comfort. Fabrics were lighter, and colors more varied than they had been in years, reflecting the changing cultural attitude of the people.

The young men wore baggy plus fours and wide legged trousers. The plus fours were another way the sports industry affected fashion, as this look was first introduced by famous golfers. Golfers also began a trend with the infamous Fair Isle sweater, which quickly caught on among men throughout society. Tennis also impacted fashion, as it grew more popular. The white trousers and v-neck sweaters were popular for a night out on the town.

In centuries past, menswear had been extremely formal, to the point of upper-class men in Edwardian times having to change their clothing several times a day to meet proprieties needs. A suit and neck tie of some form was essentially always worn, though in the 1920s the suit became much simpler. The suit jacket became slimmer and unpadded, and worn over simple trousers.

The baggy trousers originated at Oxford University, due to a ban on knickerbockers; so they were called Oxford bags. As a result, trousers in the 1920s grew continuously wider in the legs, leading to the development of the front crease. This allowed for a sharper look, especially in silhouette. Suspenders became a hold of the older generation as belts took over, their waist slimming feature especially made them popular. Cuffs were added to trousers, giving them a more finished look.

With mens fashions changing so dramatically, it may seem surprising to note that formal wear remained much the same for men as it had for centuries. Granted, the frock coat was replaced by the tail coat, but that was basically the only change. The jacket still had to be black, and men still had to wear a starched white shirt and bowtie in the evenings, with black trousers and black shoes. Of course, we must not forget t fashion jackets he hat!

For centuries past, and into the 1920s, no man who had any style or manners went anywhere in public without a hat of some sort covering his head. In the summer, light straw hats or shallow stiff-brimmed hats called boaters or skimmers could be worn to meet that obligation, while in the winter, the felt fedora ruled the day. The boaters and skimmers differed only in the width of their brim. The felt fedora is best known today as a gangsters hat, but it was loved by most men because of its comfort.

In the 1920s, the rising economic times and rise of the automobile meant that clothing designers took note. They began to create clothing to be worn exclusively while driving, such as the flat English driving hat and vented leather gloves. These were considered essential when taking your sweetheart for a drive.

Of course, other cultural icons, such as aviator Charles Lindbergh, also impacted fashion. His leather coat became popular, and many men liked to wear the scarf too. The jacket was considered a necessity, in fact, with no man of style wanting to be without one.

The fashion of the 20s was jazzy, with a pop and sizzle all its own. This would last until the stock market crash of 1929, when money became too tight for fashion. Though it would take the fashion industry years to listen and cater to the young again as much as they did in the 20s, there was no chance of a return to the dress codes and expectations of centuries past. Youth had had its say, and wouldnt go back. Stuffiness in dress was over; it was the dawn of a new age.

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